Quick facts
Nepal's most iconic short trek — a 4-5 day rhododendron-forest walk through Gurung and Magar villages to Poon Hill's sunrise panorama over Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range.
Overview
Poon Hill is the single most-requested itinerary I guide, and after years of doing it I understand why. The sunrise from that little observation tower is genuinely arresting — Dhaulagiri, the Annapurna massif, and Machhapuchhre lined up in a single 180-degree sweep of snowcapped peaks with the valleys still dark below. It delivers on its reputation, which is not something every famous viewpoint in Nepal can claim.
The route from Nayapul through Tikhedhunga, up the long stone staircase to Ghorepani, and then the pre-dawn climb to Poon Hill covers around 60km round trip through some of the most culturally rich terrain in the Annapurna region. You pass through Gurung and Magar villages — Ulleri, Ghorepani, Tadapani, Ghandruk — where the pace of life and the quality of the food in the teahouses reflects generations of hosting trekkers on their own terms. It is not wilderness, but it is genuine.
I run the standard 5-day loop most of the time: Nayapul to Tikhedhunga, up to Ghorepani, Poon Hill sunrise and onward to Tadapani, down to Ghandruk with its famous terrace view of Machhapuchhre, and out via Birethanti to Pokhara. In spring the rhododendrons between Ghorepani and Tadapani are red and pink and overwhelming — this is when the trek is at its most photogenic. The 4-day version skips the Ghandruk extension and comes back via the same ridge; it works but loses some of the loop's cultural depth.
Who this trek is for
Poon Hill is the right choice for anyone new to trekking in Nepal who wants genuine mountain scenery and cultural immersion without committing to a week or more above 3,500m. It also suits families with older children, travellers with limited time (4 days is viable), and anyone who wants a reliable warm-up before a more demanding route. The highest sleeping altitude is 2,874m at Ghorepani, and the terrain is challenging but not technical.
Best views & moments
- Sunrise from Poon Hill (3,210m) with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South filling the horizon
- Rhododendron forests in full bloom between Ghorepani and Tadapani in March and April
- The large Gurung settlement of Ghandruk with its stone-paved lanes and Machhapuchhre backdrop
- Continuous mountain views from open ridges between Deurali and Ghorepani
- Authentic teahouse culture in villages that have been welcoming trekkers for decades without losing their character
- The famous stone staircase from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri — steep and satisfying, an honest climb
- Hot showers and good food at Ghorepani after the day's hardest ascent
Day-by-day itinerary
Route & terrain
The trek starts at Nayapul (1,070m), the end of the road west of Pokhara, and follows the Modi Khola river north to Birethanti before the trail begins to climb. The lower section through Tikhedhunga is relatively flat and forested, giving the legs an easy introduction before the Ulleri staircase — roughly 3,000 stone steps gaining over 600m in 90 minutes. This is the toughest sustained climb of the whole trek, and it happens on the second morning, which is fine.
Above Ulleri the path enters dense, old-growth rhododendron and oak forest that persists all the way to Ghorepani. The forest is magnificent in any season but genuinely transformative in late March and April when the rhododendrons are in full bloom — reds and pinks overhead for hours. Ghorepani itself is a proper ridge village with good teahouses, hot showers, and the kind of energetic evening atmosphere that comes from being a well-established trekking hub.
Poon Hill is a 45-minute pre-dawn walk from Ghorepani along a broad path, climbing 336m to the small concrete observation tower at 3,210m. From the top, the panorama stretches from Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in the west across the entire Annapurna massif to Lamjung Himal in the east — perhaps the most comprehensive sub-5,000m viewpoint in Nepal. The descent from Ghorepani via Tadapani and Ghandruk follows a quieter, less-trodden path through continued rhododendron forest before emerging into the open terraced farmland of the Gurung heartland.
General info
Difficulty & preparation
Poon Hill is consistently rated as one of Nepal's easier multi-day treks, and that rating is accurate for healthy adults who exercise regularly. The maximum altitude of 3,210m at Poon Hill is the day-hike highpoint, with the highest overnight at 2,874m in Ghorepani — well below the altitude where acclimatisation becomes a serious concern for most people.
The one genuinely demanding section is the climb from Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, which gains roughly 1,330m in elevation over 5-6 hours. The stone staircase to Ulleri is steep and unrelenting for the first 90 minutes. After Ulleri the gradient moderates, but the total elevation gain for the day is among the highest of any single day on any Annapurna itinerary. Come prepared for a hard second day.
The descent from Ghorepani via Tadapani and Ghandruk is considerably gentler than the ascent and can be completed in stages over two relaxed days. Trail surfaces throughout are generally good — compacted earth and stone steps, occasionally muddy in the wet season. Trekking poles reduce knee strain significantly on the descents, which is worth considering if you have any history of knee problems.
Crowding is the underrated challenge on Poon Hill — the trail between Nayapul and Ghorepani sees very heavy traffic in October-November and March-April, particularly at Poon Hill itself at sunrise. This does not affect safety but does affect the experience. I sometimes adjust timing on the summit morning to be on the platform slightly before or after the peak crowd.
How to prepare
Four to six weeks of regular aerobic exercise before the trek is ideal preparation. Daily walks of 60-90 minutes, stair climbing, cycling, or swimming will get you ready for the sustained climbing on day two. If you can do a practice hike with elevation gain in the weeks before arriving in Nepal, even better.
The Tikhedhunga-Ghorepani climb on day two is where unprepared trekkers struggle. Practising walking uphill for 2+ hours consecutively will help your legs and your confidence. The descent days from Ghorepani through Ghandruk are long but gentler — good knees help, so strengthen quads and glutes if you have time.
Packing light is genuinely important here. A daypack of 5-8kg with a porter carrying the main bag is the right approach. Bring trekking poles, broken-in waterproof boots, a warm layer for Ghorepani evenings (it gets cold at 2,874m even in October), and sunscreen for the Poon Hill summit. Travel insurance covering emergency evacuation from high altitude is required.
Permits you'll need
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
NPR 3,000 (~USD 22) for foreigners; NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals
Mandatory for the entire route. Obtainable in Pokhara at the ACAP counter in Damside or in Kathmandu at the Nepal Tourism Board. Checked at Birethanti entry point.
TIMS Card (Trekkers' Information Management System)
NPR 1,000 (~USD 7) per person when trekking with a registered agency
Required for all trekkers in the Annapurna region. When booking with me through a registered agency, the TIMS is arranged as part of the permit process.
I handle all permit paperwork as your licensed guide.
Altitude & acclimatisation
Poon Hill is among the safest Annapurna routes for altitude-related concerns. The summit at 3,210m is a day excursion from a sleeping altitude of 2,874m, meaning you ascend and descend to a lower point for sleep each night. The overnight altitude at Ghorepani is the peak sleeping elevation, which is low enough that true AMS is uncommon in otherwise healthy adults.
That said, some people experience mild headaches and fatigue at Ghorepani, particularly those who have come from sea level with minimal acclimatisation time. The remedy in almost all cases is rest, hydration, and an early night. Ascending slowly on day two helps significantly — taking the Tikhedhunga-Ulleri staircase steadily without racing pays dividends by the time you are at Ghorepani.
For the Poon Hill summit (3,210m), the exertion of the predawn climb at altitude can bring on mild breathlessness in those unaccustomed to elevation, even in people who feel fine at Ghorepani. Pace yourself on the way up and you will be fine at the top. This route does not require Diamox for most trekkers, but I am always cautious about individuals with underlying cardiac or respiratory conditions.
Food & accommodation
Ghorepani is the most developed teahouse hub on this route and probably the best-supplied mountain village in the entire Annapurna region after Namche. Rooms are comfortable by teahouse standards — twin beds, warm blankets, hot showers (sometimes solar, sometimes gas), and usually reliable electricity and wifi. The food is good: dal bhat, pasta, pizza (passable), apple pie, and various egg and bread breakfast options.
The teahouses in Tadapani and Ghandruk are slightly simpler but still comfortable and family-run. Ghandruk's lodges have memorable views from their dining room windows — Machhapuchhre framed directly ahead over your dal bhat is a reasonable working definition of a good meal.
All prices on the trail are higher than in Pokhara, increasing gradually with altitude. Budget NPR 1,500-2,500 per day for food and personal extras on the trail. Carry all your cash from Pokhara — no ATMs on the route.
What to pack
This is Nepal's most accessible multi-day trek, and you can keep gear minimal. What you actually need on this route specifically: a warm hat and gloves for the Poon Hill pre-dawn walk (temperatures can be 0-5°C at the tower even in October), a headlamp with fresh batteries for the 4:30am start, and a light sleeping bag or liner (Ghorepani teahouses provide blankets but rooms are cold). Rain gear is essential year-round — the forest sections between Ulleri and Ghorepani, and between Ghorepani and Tadapani, can be very wet even in autumn.
Footwear: mid-cut boots with ankle support are better than trail runners for the staircase sections, which are slippery when wet. Bring a second pair of dry socks you never use for walking — saved for evenings and mornings in cold, damp rooms. A small dry bag or pack liner to waterproof your essentials inside your daypack is worth having.
Do not overpack camera gear — you will carry everything on the long days. A phone and a compact camera are usually enough for most people, and the views from Poon Hill have been photographed comprehensively from every angle.